Susanna Griffith, honor graduate of the Culinary Institute of America offers a wine and food pairing menu to enhance a memorable occasion with friends and family.
MIDSUMMER MEDITERRANEAN AFFAIR
When I first started working on this menu, I wanted to stick to an all-Iberian theme, but then, the French Rosés arrived. And there is nothing better than a Rosé with a fish stew. And, of course, after that, a fresh and elegant Loire Sauvignon Blanc came in, so herewith, a rather successful dinner menu for a few of your lucky friends! Speaking of summer, I also decided to keep this menu as simple as possible, without having to overheat the cook or the kitchen. Thus, the tapas can be easily purchased at a good delicatessen, and the dessert is nothing but high quality chocolates, fresh berries and nuts.
MENU
Tapas
White Port Spritzer
One of the nicer aperitifs is a White Port Spritzer. It is cooling and refreshing and great with a few tapas such as Spanish Chorizo, olives, roasted and peeled red peppers drizzled with olive oil, and a few cheeses. If you’re feeling adventuresome: grill fresh sardines with a bit of olive oil, lemon, salt and pepper. Have a basket of artisan crackers and crostini on hand. To make a White Port Spritzer pour 2 ounces White Port over ice in a highball glass and top with sparkling water and serve with a twist of lemon or lime.
Or
Casa Doro Cava Brut NV, Spain Cava is to Spaniards what Champagne is to the French. Made in the Catalonia wine region in the Northeast corner of Spain, the traditional grapes used in Cava are Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada. Combined, this grape trio create a youthful, light, fresh and fruity sparkler. Casa Doro is produced using the traditional method, or Mèthode Champenoise where the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, producing a fine mousse and perlage. Casa Doro is crisp and clean with a medium body and engaging flavors of apple, pear, and citrus. Asparagus with Cilantro and Garlic
Fisherman’s Stew
Domaine del Corbillières Sauvignon Blanc, Tours, Loire, France, 2009
Domaine des Corbillières produces one of the finest and best value Sauvignon Blanc the world over. 2009 was a fabulous vintage in the Loire, and Corbillières pulled out all the stops! Bright and happy personality with aromas of pink grapefruit, fresh ginger, chamomile, and lemon zest leading to a refreshing and lithe palate redolent with luscious and zesty fruits rounded with a calming streak of chalk. Or
Domaine de Saint-Antoine Rosé. Vin de Pays d’Oc, France, 2009
A blend of 50% Syrah and 50% Grenache, If I was a painter, I would say that the wine is so pink, it’s blue! Enticing nose of summer strawberries, red cherries and watermelon at the picnic table on the Fourth of July. Juicy, ripe and round fruits, medium-full body, crisp, and refreshing. Or
Bieler Père et Fils, Rosé, “Sabine,” Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France, 2009
A Syrah-driven wine blended with Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon. Salmon pink in color, the wine exhibits a gorgeous nose and mouth-watering flavors of strawberry, cherry, and red currant backed with hints of blood orange, pink blossoms, and mineral. A polished, harmonious and elegant style, with a medium-full body and long finish. Summer Chocolate Sampler
I like to use a handsome wooden or marble cutting board for this dessert. Simply arrange the following in an artful pattern similar to a cheese plate: Chunks of bittersweet, milk chocolate and white chocolate (I like Callebaut!) a medley of fresh berries (raspberries, blueberries and blackberries), candied orange peel, toasted walnuts and almonds. Pacific Rim Framboise, Mount Vernon, Washington,
Created from the Morrison raspberry variety, the fruit is fermented to about .5% alcohol, then, grape spirits are added to finish the wine at 16.5% alcohol. Positively a treat for your palate! Redolent and intense with pure flavors of raspberry and fresh floral and red fruit aromas. Concentrated with amazing persistence. Or
Quady Essencia, Madera, California, 2008
Made from the Orange Muscat varietal, Essencia, exhibits aromas and flavors of orange blossom and zest with apricot. Full-bodied with a lingering aftertaste, the wine is lightly fortified to 15% alcohol and aged three months in French Oak. RECIPES:
Grilled Asparagus with Cilantro and Smoked Paprika Aïoli
Serves 4-6
I must admit: I started out with a traditional recipe using green beans, cilantro and garlic from Jean Anderson’s The Food of Portugal, but summer is the perfect time of year to have some fun with asparagus! And said vegetable, while dreamily tasty, is hard as all get out to pair with wine. Methionine, an amino acid, is largely responsible for the clash, as are the mercaptan and thiol compounds. The latter two compounds’ sulfurous traits combine with the green grassy profile of asparagus, bringing on a no holds barred battle with wine. But, with grilling or broiling, the char changes the flavor profile of the vegetable, allowing it to play nice with wine and with a creamy or mayonnaise based sauce, the pairing is enhanced further. I used a purchased mayonnaise for the aioli, but you can always whip up your own!
Ingredients for the asparagus:
2 pounds asparagus
1-2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 1. Preheat the broiler or grill, or start a fire. Meanwhile, remove tough ends of asparagus and peel as needed. Coat asparagus with the oil and salt and pepper to taste.
2. Grill, turning the spears once or twice, just until the thick part of the stalks can be pierced with a knife, 10-15 minutes. Broiling time will be shorter, taking 5-10 minutes total. Serve at room temperature with the aioli, or a squeeze of lemon. Ingredients for the aïoli:
I like to toast dried herbs and spices in a skillet, just until they release their aroma. It takes away that “dried herb” taste and enhances their flavor profile.
1 cup mayonnaise
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup cilantro, chopped
1 ½ teaspoons smoked paprika
½ teaspoon oregano, lightly toasted in a dry skillet
Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Combine all ingredients and blend well.
2. Cover and refrigerate until use
Fisherman’s Stew
Serves 4-6
I served this delicious stew, called caldierada in Portugal, at a wine and food tasting. It is perfect for a summer bacchanal--hearty, yet light on its feet. Feel free to add shrimp or other crustaceans to the stew—I just don’t eat them. I created this recipe from two sources with a few tweaks of my own: Ric Orlando’s We Want Clean Food and the Food Network’s website. Don’t be overwhelmed with the number of ingredients. This is truly a simple stew, with lots of dibs and dabs of spices, reflecting the cultural heritage of the Iberian Peninsula. I like preparing the broth the day before, refrigerating it covered after it has cooled. I do like the way the ingredients marry after spending the night together!
Ingredients for the Broth
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 cup onions, medium dice
½ cup red bell pepper, medium dice
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, sliced
1 cup Vinho Verde or other crisp, tart white wine
½ teaspoon curry powder
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/3 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated
1 teaspoon fresh cilantro, minced
1 teaspoon fresh oregano or ½ teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme
3 dried bay leaves
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 teaspoon saffron threads
4 cups canned whole tomatoes, roughly chopped, including juice
4 cups clam juice or fish stock
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
To finish the stew:
1 pound kale, chopped
¾ pound Alaskan cod or halibut filet, cut into 2 inch chunks, pin bones and skin removed
16-18 rope grown mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded
2 dozen little neck clams
¾ pound bay scallops
½ pound calamari, cut into ¼ inch rings
1/3 cup Italian parsley, chopped 1. Heat the oil in a large heavy stockpot or Dutch oven over medium high heat. Sauté the onion and bell pepper, stirring with a wooden spoon until the onions and bell pepper are wilted. Add the garlic. Do not allow it to change color, just release its aroma. Add the tomato paste, stirring it in with a wooden spoon. Stir in the potatoes. Add the wine and the herbs and spices and bring to a boil. Continue cooking for 3-4 minutes, allowing the alcohol to evaporate from the wine.
2. Reduce heat to medium and add the canned tomatoes and clam juice. Simmer for 15-20 minutes. Season with sea salt and pepper to taste. At this point, you can cool the broth, then, refrigerate it over night.
3. Reheat the broth to a gentle simmer if you have refrigerated it. Stir in the kale, and simmer for about 3 minutes. Add the fish filets and simmer for 3 minutes. Then add the scallops and cook for 2-3 minutes more. Add the mussels and clams together and continue cooking for 2 minutes. Finally, add the squid, turn off the heat, cover and let rest for 5 minutes. The squid will cook through without getting rubbery.
4. Ladle stew into bowls, garnish freely with the parsley, and serve with a good crusty bread. |
