Susanna Griffith, honor graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, and Janice Berman, experienced wine consultant, offer a menu to enhance any memorable occasion with family and friends.
FEAST OF AUTUMN
Once upon an autumn eve, with leaves skitter-scattering, we put together the perfect holiday party with three courses, three or more wines and the perfect dinner guests. The meal combines depth and lightness, embracing harvest traditions the world over.
Take the first course: Beets and oranges are a traditional pairing, but tie in the spiciness of arugula and the tangy, lemony sweetness of fresh goat cheese and a dazzling star alights your table.
Lamb, seasoned with coriander and pomegranate, evokes the Middle East, but swirl in a bit of butter, a handful of shallots and a soupçon of thyme, and be transported to a Paris bistro on Boulevard Saint-Germain-des-Près. Enjoy a fall fusion of delicious brussels sprouts (really!), a wild mushroom ragout and a creamy potato-parsnip dish. For dessert, we offer the ultimate in comfort food (not counting chocolate, of course): a moist, cinnamon-y apple cake, doused with a silky vanilla sauce. It's easy to make and tastier than dunking for apples at the fair. Cheers to a bountiful harvest and sweater-weather!
MENU
First Course
Arugula Salad with Beets, Orange, and Goat Cheese
Wines
Lucien Crochet Sancerre, Loire, France, 2004
Sauvignon Blanc is one of the world's food-friendly grapes and the designated varietal in the Sancerre region.
Crochet is our go- to Sauvignon Blanc! Racy and vibrant, with aromas of citrus peel, mineral and gooseberry. Refreshing contrast to the meaty pepperiness of the arugula and earthy sweetness of the beets and
a soaring complement to the citrus and goat cheese.
Or
Balandran "Les Mugues" Blanc, Costières de Nimes, Rhône, France, 2006
Bright and refreshing, perfumed with white flowers, white peach and honeydew melon. Crisp and clean with a medium body and finish. Highlights the fruitiness of the beets and oranges, tones the arugula, and silkens the cheese.
Second Course
Coriander Crusted Leg of Lamb with Pomegranate Sauce
Pan Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Walnuts
Mushroom Ragout
Potato, Parsnip, and Leek Puree
Wines
Luigi Ferrando "Carema", Canavese, Piedmont, Italy, 2002
From high on a mountainside, comes this stellar 100% Nebbiolo. Not a shrinking violet to its more famous
cousins, Barolo and Barbaresco, this wine, from the miniscule appellation of Canavese, struts- its'-stuff -- pairing
with elegance and finesse. Displaying the traditional brick red color, the wine delights with aromas of red and
black cherry, rose petals and earthy leather, segueing into a mouthful of beautiful fruit accented with mineral, leather and spice. This beauty caresses the palate and ascends to a long sensual finish with super fine tannins.
Complex and balanced, Carema fits like a glove with this menu.
Or
Bodegas Quinta de la Quietud " Corral de Campanas," Toro, Spain, 2004
100% Tinto de Toro (Tempranillo). Gorgeous wine--a vibrant opaque purple giant. Tarry earth, black cherry
and exotic spices greet the nose. Black fruit notes and ripe supple tannins give backbone to beef up
the pomegranate rub and add finesse to the mushroom ragout.
Third Course
Fresh Apple Cake with Cinnamon Crème Anglaise
Wines
Merryvale "Antigua" Dessert Wine, Napa Valley, California, NV
Napa Valley's Merryvale Vineyard produces a seductive 100% Muscat De Frontignan from vintages back to 1970.
The golden tawny color is gorgeous and brilliant, leading the nose to fragrant aromas of orange-peel, butterscotch and almonds. Muscat fortified with fine pot-still brandy and aged in French oak barrels gives it the color and a thick rich feel in the mouth. These flavors continue through the long, never-ending finish. Mysterious and divine.
Or
Borgo Scopeto Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy 2000
A delicious and unique dessert wine, produced from Tuscan Trebbiano and Malvasia. Grapes are hand picked
and bunches are hung from the rafter of well-ventilated rooms. After three years in small chestnut barrels,
Vin Santo is further aged in bottle, The result - a viscous golden-yellow liquid with an etheral bouquet; intense,
with hints of raisin and dry figs. Sweet in the mouth and silky, with never-ending length.
Lends itself beautifully to dry confectionery and fruit.
RECIPES
Arugula Salad with Beets, Orange, and Goat Cheese
Meaty, sweet, and tart--a perfect beginning for a harvest meal! I like to use the small beets, in their Jacob's Coat of Many Colors. Beware the staining ability of said beets. If red hands give you a pause, wear latex gloves. The salad dressing is from epicurious.com.
Serves 10 easily.
For the Dressing:
¼ cup lemon juice
2 tablespoons thawed frozen orange juice concentrate zest from one orange
1 teaspoon Kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
For the Salad:
2 pounds beets, without leaves (save for a stir-fry!)
5 oranges
14 ounces (16 cups) arugula
1 cup fresh goat cheese, crumbled
1/3 cup finely sliced red onion
- In a bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, orange juice concentrate, orange zest, salt, and pepper. Whisking constantly, slowly add the olive oil. (Can be made one day ahead. Cover, refrigerate, and rewhisk before using.)
- Peel beets and cut into ½ inch wedges. In a steamer set over boiling water, steam beets until tender, about 10 minutes, and shock in ice water, drain, and place in a large bowl.
- With one of the oranges, grate zest for dressing. Remove pith with a knife. Cut off peel and pith or the remaining oranges. Cut oranges into ½ inch thick rounds. Cut each round into quarters, removing any seeds. Add the oranges to the beets.
- Discard coarse stems from the arugula and wash well. Add arugula along with the goat cheese and red onion to the oranges and beets, tossing gently.
- Toss salad with enough dressing to coat and serve.
Coriander Crusted Leg of Lamb with Pomegranate Sauce
Lamb is one of my picture perfect celebratory meals. We created this dish as a mélange of Indian, Mid Eastern, and European sensibilities. The coriander and thyme add depth and pungency to the flavor while the pomegranate and honey brighten and sweeten the lamb. Have your butcher bone and butterfly the lamb for you, unless you are like me and enjoy doing such tasks. If you don't have a spice grinder, use the bottom of a heavy skillet or use ground spices. The ground spices won't be as pungent. Pomegranates are sweet tart, similar to cranberries. The honey softens the sourness of the juice and molasses. Pomegranate juice is now available in most supermarkets and natural food stores. Pomegranate molasses is available at Central Market in Dallas, on line at igourmet.com, and at Mediterranean grocery stores. If you can't find the molasses, substitute a handful of reconstituted dried cranberries for the molasses. And fresh pomegranates are in season in the fall!
Serves 8-10 generously.
For the Lamb:
1 (4 to 5 pound) leg of lamb, boned and butterflied
6 cloves of garlic, minced
2 tablespoons whole coriander, coarsely ground
2 tablespoons black peppercorns, coarsely ground
2 tablespoons fresh thyme, minced
1 tablespoon Kosher salt
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon honey
4 tablespoons olive oil
butcher's twine
- Remove any excess fat and fell (the hard waxy fat) from the roast. If necessary, cover the lamb with plastic wrap, and pound to a uniform ¾ inch thickness.
- Combine the garlic, coriander, pepper, thyme, salt, pomegranate molasses, honey, and olive oil to form a paste. (Use a mortar and pestle or food processor.) Coat the rough interior side of the lamb (where the bone was removed) with half of the paste. Roll into a tight cylinder. Tie the roast securely at 1-½ inch intervals. Coat with the remainder of the spice mixture. Place rolled lamb in a large Pyrex baking dish, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for a minimum of three hours to overnight. Remove from refrigerator about 1 hour before roasting.
- Adjust oven rack to the lower-middle portion of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a roasting pan with foil (for ease in clean-up), then oil the pan and roasting rack. Place lamb on rack and roast for 15 minutes. Turn oven temperature down to 350°F. Continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of roast registers 130°F to 135 °F (medium rare), about 45 minutes to an hour. Transfer meat to a cutting board and tent with foil. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Cut into ½-inch slices.
For the Pomegranate Sauce:
If you want to use fresh pomegranate juice rather than the canned variety, simply cut in half as you would an orange, and using a citrus reamer or juicer, squeeze out the juice. This sauce is also wonderful with chicken, turkey, and pork.
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 ½ cups minced shallots (about 8 large)
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 cup Ruby Port
6 cups chicken stock
2 cups pomegranate juice
4 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
2 tablespoons honey
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons finely chopped chives
Seeds from 1-2 pomegranates (depends on how many the cooks eat!)
- Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Sweat the shallots until tender. Add the peppercorns, bay leaves and fresh thyme and continue sweating for 2 or 3 minutes.
- Stir in Port, scrapping any browned bits. Allow for most of the Port to evaporate. Add stock, pomegranate juice, pomegranate molasses, and honey. Increase heat, and bring to a low boil. Continue boiling, stirring as necessary, until sauce is reduced to approximately 1 ½ to 2 cups, about 40 minutes. (Sauce is reduced when it coats-nappé- the back of a wooden spoon.)
- Strain sauce into a medium sauce pan and bring to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Whisk in the remaining 4 tablespoons butter.
- When serving, garnish the sauced lamb with the chives and pomegranate seeds.
Pan Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Walnuts
Adapted from Epicurious.com
Forget those sprouts of yesteryear that were boiled to mush and smelled of skunk. These sprouts are delicious, and besides, you can always pretend to be a giant eating cabbage. Make sure your cast iron skillet is well seasoned!
Serves 8-10 as a side dish.
Ingredients
1 ½ pounds Brussels sprouts
6 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
5 tablespoon unsalted butter Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste
½ cup walnut pieces
- Trim sprouts and halve lengthwise. In a heavy non-stick or cast iron skillet, melt 3 ½ tablespoons butter with the oil. Sauté garlic until golden brown. With a slotted spoon, transfer garlic to a small bowl.
- Reduce heat to low and arrange sprouts in the skillet, cut side down. Sprinkle with the walnut pieces and salt. Cook sprouts without turning, until crisp tender and undersides are a golden brown, about 15 minutes.
- Transfer sprouts to a serving platter, browned sides up. Add garlic and remaining butter to skillet, and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly until walnuts are more evenly toasted. Spoon mixture over sprouts and season with pepper.
Mushroom Ragout
We both use this wonderful recipe from The Greens Cookbook, by the vegetarian Chef Deborah Madison of the legendary San Francisco restaurant. Feel free to use all sorts of exotic mushrooms, or the plain cultivars if those are the only ones available. Use vegetable or mushroom stock, or chicken stock, if you are not a vegetarian. Try this recipe for a meatless menu, and serve with grilled polenta or herbed pasta, and a Mesclun salad.
Serves 8-12 as a side dish
Ingredients:
3 cups stock (vegetable, mushroom, or chicken)
½ ounce dried Porcini mushrooms
½ pounds mushrooms, cleaned and sliced a good ¼ inch thick
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium carrot, peeled, small dice
2 celery stalks, small dice
1 large yellow onion, small dice
Kosher salt, to taste
1 cup dry white or red wine
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
Black pepper to taste
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ cup parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, finely chopped
- Heat the stock to a simmer and add the dried mushrooms, cover, and continue cooking at a simmer for 20 minutes. Strain (leaving any sediment!), reserving both the stock and reconstituted mushrooms.
- Heat a heavy duty stove proof casserole. Add the olive oil, and add the carrots, celery, and onion. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the onion is well colored, about 30 minutes. Add the salt and wine, increase the heat, and reduce the liquid by half. Set aside.
- Cook the mushrooms in two batches. For each batch, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a wide skillet. Add ½ of the mushrooms and sauté over high heat for about 2 minutes. When they begin to lose their juices, season with salt, pepper, and a quarter of the garlic. Cook another few minutes, then add to the casserole with the onion, carrot, celery mixture. Repeat the procedure, this time sautéing the reserved dried mushrooms along with the fresh. Add the second batch of mushrooms to the casserole when they are done cooking.
- Return the casserole to the heat and stir in the flour. Cook for 2 minutes, and add the stock. Stir gently and well, then cook over a low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the ragout tastes cooked. Add the parsley and tarragon.
Potato, Parsnip, and Leek Puree
This is our idea of the ultimate in comfort food. I prefer using boiling potatoes over baking-Russet-potatoes. Boilers have a smoother consistency while the Russets have more of a granular texture.
Special equipment: a potato ricer or a food mill fitted with a medium disc. Of course, this recipe can easily be prepared using a potato masher and adding the simmering cream to the mash. It will just be a little coarser.
1 ½ pounds leeks, white and pale green parts only
2 pounds parsnips, peeled and cut into 1 inch pieces
2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into 2 inch pieces
1 tablespoon Kosher salt
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup unsalted butter
Kosher salt and black pepper to taste
Few gratings of fresh nutmeg
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
- Wash leeks carefully in several changes of cold water, making sure that all sand is rinsed out. Lift leeks out of the water and drain in a colander. Pat dry.
- Melt butter in a heavy saucepan and add leaks. Cook until soft. Remove from heat. Add the cream.
- Meanwhile, cover parsnips and potatoes with cold water and add the 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil, uncovered, and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 30-40 minutes. Drain well. When the potatoes and parsnips are almost cooked, reheat the leek-cream mixture to a simmer.
- Run the potato-parsnip puree through the ricer into the simmering cream. Stir to combine well. Season with salt, pepper, and a few grindings of nutmeg. Garnish with the finely chopped parsley.
Fresh Apple Cake with Cinnamon Crème Anglaise
This is a simply delicious glazed cake from James Beard's wonderful cookbook, The New James Beard. My copy is rather dog-eared and stained, but I always go back to his simple style and beautiful recipes. The crème anglaise lends an air of sophistication and panache to this lush dessert.
Serves 12.
For the Cake:
9 or 10 inch tube or Bundt pan, greased and floured
1 ½ cups vegetable oil
2 cups sugar
3 eggs
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
½ teaspoon salt
3 cups diced tart raw Green Pippin apples
1 cup black walnut or regular walnut meats
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
For the Glaze:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons heavy cream mixed with ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract.
- Combine the oil and sugar in a large bowl. Blend well with an electric mixer. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.
- Sift together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Sift these into the oil-egg mixture and combine thoroughly.
- Add the diced raw apples and the walnuts. Mix well with a spatula, then add the vanilla, mixing well.
- Pour the batter into a greased and floured 9 or 10 inch tube pan. Bake at 325°F for 1 ¼ hours, or until the cake tests done when pierced with a skewer or toothpick. Remove from the oven and let rest in the pan while you prepare the glaze.
- For the glaze, melt the butter, sugars, and heavy cream mixed with the vanilla in a heavy pan. Boil for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and spoon over the warm cake. Let it cool in the pan before removing.
Cinnamon Crème Anglaise
Crème Anglaise is the classic "mother" sauce for desserts in traditional French cuisine. It forms the basis for sauces, custards (baked and boiled), ice creams, etc. I am going to include two methods of preparing the sauce, both from a wonderful Pastry Chef (Chef Schreyer) at the CIA. You can substitute milk or half and half for the heavy cream. I just won't be as rich. I also use less sugar in the sauce than many recipes because sugar can be overpowering in its taste. Splitting the sugar in half keeps the cream from boiling over and protects the yolks from excess heat. Using all egg yolks makes a richer sauce, but if you have no use for the whites (think omelet), then use whole eggs instead.
Ingredients:
2 cups heavy cream
¾ cup granulated sugar
6 egg yolks (or 3 to 4 whole eggs)
2 inch piece of a vanilla bean (or 2 teaspoons vanilla extract)
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
wire whisk
wooden spoon
double boiler
strainer
Method One (The Classic)
- Combine the egg yolks, and half the sugar in a medium bowl. Whip with a wire whisk until well mixed.
- Pour the cream and the remainder of the sugar into a heavy bottomed saucepan. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the cream mixture. Stir in the cinnamon. Heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Bring almost to a boil (tiny bubbles will appear around the rim of the pan).
- Slowly pour the hot cream into the egg mixture in a thin stream, stirring constantly. Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water. (The water should not touch the bottom of the bowl. Stir constantly over medium-low heat until the custard thickens slightly and coats the back of the wooden spoon when finger is drawn across, about 12 minutes. Do not allow mixture to boil.
- Strain, cool, and refrigerate covered. To keep a skin from forming on top of the sauce, float a sheet of wax paper or plastic wrap directly on top of the sauce.
Method Two (The I Get Distracted Way!)
- Combine the egg yolks and half the sugar in a medium bowl.
- Pour the cream and the remainder of the sugar into a heavy bottomed saucepan. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the cream mixture. Stir in the cinnamon. Heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Bring almost to a boil (tiny bubbles will appear around the rim of the pan). Turn off heat.
- Add the egg and sugar mixture. No need to temper the eggs, as the eggs are cold and will reduce the temperature of the cream.
- Stir constantly and pour into another bowl. Allow to cool. Strain and refrigerate.
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