Susanna Griffith, honor graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, and Janice Berman, experienced wine consultant, offer a menu to enhance a memorable occasion with friends and family.
A HALCYON SPRING
As a painter prepares his canvas, a cook finds inspiration at the market. And what better time than late spring and early summer, when produce is ripe and mouthwatering? With a gathering of in-season vegetables, a catch of fresh salmon and the first succulent berries available, the home chef can color the palate with the most delicious offerings of the season.
We chose a simple menu, ideal as an elegant luncheon for six or dinner for four. Rather than several courses, the following menu consists of a colorful main course salad with salmon, followed by an ethereal flourless torte dappled with plump blueberries.
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MENU
Broiled Coho Salmon with a Salad of Green Beans,
Cherry Tomatoes, and New Potatoes
WINES
Clos Floridene Blanc, Graves, France, 2005
Dazzling dry white Bordeaux! For quality and price, this typical blend of Sauvignon Blanc and
Semillon cannot be matched. Medium-bodied, the fresh nose is integrated with orangey-grapefruit flavor and a whiff of petrol to remind us that we're in Graves territory (mingling with the A+ producers at a fraction of the cost). A sturdy backbone with integrated acidity, good length and tongue-coating flavor completes the picture perfectly.
or
Laurent Tribut Chablis, France 2005
From vines located just above the Premier Cru vineyards of Montmains, this multi-layered
Chardonnay exemplifies the pedigree of the vintage. Tribut ferments in stainless steel, then ages in
7-8 year old barrels. The wine retains its mineral core and lemony grapefruit freshness, yet shows off with an opulent mouth feel with spicy pear and ripe stony fruit flavors, complementing the salmon's oily texture.
or
Luigi Ferrando "La Torrazza" Bianco, Piedmonte, Italy, 2006
Who knew about this ancient white grape, Erbaluce di Caluso, originally grown on the hills of
upper Piedmont? The Ferrando family cultivates this unique varietal to produce the region's best wine.
It has vibrant acidity, mineral undertones and surprising sophistication. A romatic of rich tropicals
(think guava, mango and papaya) and tangerine curd, La Torrazza has the structure and
concentration to enjoy the company of our two preceding white wine suggestions. Terrific find!
or
Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne Rouge, France, 2005
A not-so-simple Pinot Noir from a great Burgundy vintage. The attractive nose of ripe cherry
and cranberry is accented with a hint of forest and floral notes. Elegant and medium-bodied,
with rounded tannins and good cut. A balanced match for the salmon's rich flesh and light enough
to contrast, not contradict the green bean salad. Orange Almond Torte with Blueberries Wines
Ricossa Moscato d'Asti, Piedmonte, Italy, 2007
Bright acidity and prima ballerina precision outline the fresh cling peach and apricot aromatics
of this palate-cleansing Moscato. Backed with refreshing lime-accented acidity and a
not-too-sweet impression, it pairs gracefully with the torte's almond and orange flavors,
landing "en pointe" with the blueberry garnish.
or
Domaine des Bernardins Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, France, 2004
Located in the southern half of the vast Rhone Valley, the Muscat grape has been known to
be 'remarkable' as early as the year 1248 and again during the 14 th century, where it was
prized by the Popes. Delicate and refreshing, this graceful vin doux naturel (VDN)
has a heady Muscat scent of honeysuckle, rose petal and orange blossom, yet comes
across with feather-like lightness. Plays fairly with the almond and orange torte,
complementing and segueing into the flavors synergistically.
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RECIPES
Broiled Salmon with a Salad of Green Beans, Cherry Tomatoes, and New Potatoes
I created this recipe after a morning run to the local market. At the seafood counter, I spied Coho salmon on sale. Yippee! Not only did I score a gorgeous filet; the green beans were slender and crisp, the baby lettuce was bright and fresh and the cherry tomatoes were bursting with flavor. With my finds in hand, I trundled home to a decently stocked pantry (where I can always find reasonable substitutes), and a recipe percolating in my head. With a little help from The Gourmet Cookbook for a dressing, I was on my way to a great meal. Serves 4 for dinner or 6 for lunch
Ingredients for the Salmon:
1.5 pounds Coho Salmon filet
zest of one lime
1 tablespoon limejuice
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons chipotle powder (see note)
Sea salt to taste
1 tablespoon minced garlic
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Remove any pin bones from the salmon filet using jeweler's needle nose pliers (or a darn good pair of tweezers).
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Preheat broiler, placing rack 7 inches below heat source.
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Place salmon, skin side down on greased broiler pan.
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Mix remaining ingredients to form a paste and coat salmon well.
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Marinate, refrigerated, for a minimum of 10 minutes to one hour.
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Broil salmon for 6 to 8 minutes until almost cooked. Remove from broiler, place salmon on a cutting board and tent with foil. The salmon will continue cooking from the residual heat.
Note: Chipotle powder can be found at Latin American markets, Central Market or on-line. Alternatively, purchase whole dried Chipotle or Ancho chiles, toast, seed and grind in a spice grinder or blender. Common chile powder is a blend of seasonings and is not recommended as a substitute.
Ingredients for the Composed Salad:
4 medium red bliss potatoes, sliced into ¼ inch thick rounds
3/4 pound green beans, stem ends removed
½ pound mesclun greens or baby lettuces
1-pint cherry tomatoes, quartered
½ small red onion, thinly sliced
3-4 tablespoons cilantro, thick stems removed and coarsely chopped Pine Nut Dressing (recipe follows)
The cooked salmon, divided into 4 or 6 portions
Salt as needed
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Cover the potatoes slices with cold water, add some salt, and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a low boil and continue cooking until just tender. Remove from heat, drain, and shock in ice water drain again, and pat dry.
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Bring a pot of salted water (1 tablespoon salt to 1 quart water) to a boil. Add green beans and cook, uncovered, until just tender, about 4-6 minutes. Drain and shock in ice water. Drain again and pat dry.
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On individual plates, place a handful of the mesclun greens. Top with the green beans, potato, and red onion. Drizzle with the pine nut dressing. Top with the quartered tomatoes, salmon, and remaining dressing. Garnish with the cilantro and remaining pine nuts.
Pine Nut Dressing
Adapted from The Gourmet Cookbook.
I substituted pine nuts for pumpkin seeds in this recipe, but either work well, adding crunch and texture. I also tweaked the flavors, adding a pinch more of the Mexican herbs. Yield: 4-6 portions
Ingredients:
½ cup pine nuts
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup water
1 ½ tablespoons juice and zest of one lemon
1 clove garlic, minced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
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Toast pine nuts in a dry small heavy skillet over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until pale golden, about 7 minutes. Cool.
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Reserve 1 tablespoon of the nuts for step #3.
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In a blender, puree tablespoon of nuts with remaining ingredients.
Orange Almond Torte with Blueberries
I found this recipe at baxterbulletin.com . The only change I made was to use orange peel rather than lemon. Top this with a dollop of whipped cream and dig in! Yield: 8 portions
Ingredients:
1/3 cup blanched, slivered almonds
6 tablespoons sugar
4 large eggs, separated
5 teaspoons packed finely grated orange peel.
½ teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch of salt
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Preheat oven to 375ºF. Butter and flour a 9-inch diameter cake pan with 1-½ inch high sides. Line bottom of pan with parchment or wax paper.
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Finely grind almonds with 2 tablespoons sugar in a food processor. Combine yolks, 2 tablespoons sugar, orange peel, cinnamon and salt in medium bowl. Beat until thick and smooth, about 2 minutes. Stir in almond mixture.
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Using clean beaters or a whisk attachment, beat egg whites in large bowl until soft peaks form. Gradually add 4 tablespoons sugar, beating until stiff but not dry. Fold large spoonful of whites into almond mixture. Gently fold in remaining whites.
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Transfer batter to pan. Bake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Cool in pan on rack. Turn out onto platter. Remove waxed paper and serve with blueberries.
Blueberries 1 pint blueberries
1 tablespoon sugar
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Lightly crush ½ cup blueberries, stir in sugar and remaining whole berries. Let rest 30 minutes.
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Spoon on individual cake servings.
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