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Chef's Corner
Susanna Griffith, honor graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, and Janice Berman, experienced wine consultant, offer a menu to enhance a memorable autumn occasion with friends and family.



A HARVEST MENU

Autumn is not too far away! After an unbearably hot summer, I pine for cooler weather: lighting the fire in the hearth, layering clothes to keep warm, and preparing a hearty meal to share with family and friends. As did my ancestors, I look forward to a bountiful harvest and the season of celebration. Though I no longer need to preserve food for the winter month’s ahead, I still participate in a small way: freezing vegetables, preparing pesto, and, as the mood strikes, pickling. I enjoy the summer fare that I have conserved, but I try to eat within the season. Root vegetables are at their finest: sweet turnips and rutabagas (one of the best names I know!), carrots, starchy parsnips…My cooking techniques will also change. Poaching and sautéing will become slow braises, stews and roasting.

We are blessed as a developed nation in that we can afford to enjoy many types of food brought in from around the world, regardless of our growing season; but I continue with my mantra that locally grown and seasonal food tastes better and is better for me. Fresh meals made from scratch, although time consuming, nourishes the body as well as the soul.

In celebration of the autumnal season, we have selected a menu paired with aromatic, hearty Fall wines. Each wine will exhibit complementing or contrasting flavors, all the while, matching in intensity of fruit, body, tannin, acidity, and all-around deliciousness. Here’s to sweaters and leather jackets!




MENU



Aperitif

Cellar Vilafranca Casteller Cava Rosé, Penedes, Spain, NV
From 30- year old vines, this lovely geranium- pink sparkler sports an aromatic nose of wild strawberry
and red raspberry. A light, bright, and refreshing bubbly that is a perfect way to start any evening!


Beet and Walnut Salad



Wine

Fallegro Gagliardo, Roero, Piemonte, Italy, 2005
Fabulous!! Does not aptly describe this exuberant,
delightfully refreshing, dry vino da tavolo. With a slight frizzante, the tiniest of bubbles and the palest of pale color, Fallegro’s (produced from the grape called Favorita) delicate scent is of acacia flowers, and with bright acidity
and a cleansing feel, your pâté, oily smoked fish, and cheese will sing. Did we say Aperitif?

Or

Yves Cuilleron Viognier,Rhone, France, 2004
The tirelessly brilliant Cuilleron, on of the finest producers of Viognier and Syrah in the Northern Rhone, has crafted an intensely aromatic Viognier. The scent of white flowers in the nose leads to rich apricot flavors in the mouth. Generous, pure, and voluminous, with great length and style. TRUE Viognier!



Roast Chicken
Glazed Root Vegetables
Horseradish Mashed Potatoes




Wine

Lucien Crochet Sancerr, Loire, France, 2004
Sauvignon Blanc is one of the world’s food-friendly grapes and the designated varietal in the Sancerre region.
The Crochet family, one of the top producers for over 70 years, fashion a vibrant and racy wine, with citrus peel, mineral, and gooseberry aromatics, refreshing acidity, and excellent length. A natural companion to
goat cheese, shellfish, seafood, poultry, and assertively spiced dishes. A great food wine!

Or

Elk Cove Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2004
A lovely wine made from Pommard and Dijon clones. Aromas of black cherry and black raspberry
layered with spicy oak. Medium body, with a velvety texture and a soft, lingering finish.

Or

Bodegas Vizcarra Ramos,Vizcarra Roble, Ribera del Duero, Spain, 2003
A garnet colored, 100 % Tempranillo shows aromas of black raspberry coupled with meaty espresso.
Sporting red raspberry flavors complemented with a soupcon of leather, the wine is elegant
and restrained, yet fairly sings a lilting melody of pleasure.




Ginger Crème Brûlée with an Apple Golden Raisin Compote



Wine

Borgo Scopeto Vin Santo Del Chianti Classico, Italy 2000
A rare dessert wine from the region of Chianti. Painstakingly made from passito Trebbiano Toscano
grapes among other varietals, the wine is aged in chestnut or oak casks, in attics for perhaps 5 years.
Viscous and honeyed with intense heady aromas of dried apricot, golden raisin, and fig,
the wine is smooth and luxurious with a full body and lingering finish.

Or

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvee Sublime Demi-Sec, Reims, Champagn, France, NV
A perfectly delightful Champagne to end a romantic evening. Generous, even buxom in its aromas
of caramelized pear and pineapple overlaid with sweet cinnamon and Tahitian vanilla.
A perfect amount of sweetness contrasts with the fresh, full, and smooth mouthfeel

Or

Real Companhia Velha, Royal Oporto 20 Year Tawny, Duero, Portugal, NV
A gorgeous golden brown Tawny with mellow aromas of orange peel, ripe apricot jam, coffee, caramel, toasted walnuts, sweet spices and vanilla. A stunning smooth wine, with a full body and a long lingering finish.

Or

Chateau Suduiraut, Sauternes, 2002
Rare and delicate, this botyrised wine exhibits honey, vanilla, and apple on the nose and palate.
Full-bodied with a long satiny finish.

Or

Domaine des Bernardins Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Rhône, France, 2004
Intense and hedonistically perfumed with apricot, peach, almond, and honey aromatics and flavors. Liquid sunshine.




RECIPES


BEET AND WALNUT SALAD


From Epicurious.com

Serves 4 as a First Course.

4 medium beets (about 1 ½ pounds)
1 ½ tablespoons Sherry vinegar
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper, to taste
  • Trim beet stems to about ½ inch. In a large saucepan, simmer beets in water to cover until just tender, about 30 minutes. Drain. When cool enough to handle, peel and slice crosswise into 1/8 to ¼ -inch thick slices. While beets are still warm, in a bowl, toss with vinegar.
  • Toss beets with nuts, oil, parsley, and season with salt and pepper.



ROAST CHICKEN

I love roast chicken. It’s simple, fast, and delicious. I try and purchase free-range or organic chicken as the flavors are more developed. Don’t be afraid to add too many garlic cloves. As they roast in the pan juices, they get sweet and mellow. I change flavorings often with this recipe. Sometimes, I cut a lemon into thin rings and place under the breast skin. I use all sorts of fresh herbs such as thyme, sage, rosemary, or Mexican marigold mint. There are lots of options, so have some fun!

Instead of using a metallic rack, I use a rack of vegetables to lift the bird off the bottom of the pan. They add flavor and moisture to the roast, and most important, they make delicious gravy to serve with the chicken.

Serves 4.

Preheat oven to 375°F.

1 whole chicken, 4-5 pounds
1 onion, peeled and cut into 8 segments
6-10 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 3-inch long sections
4 celery ribs, peeled and cut into 3-inch long sections
½ bunch parsley, left whole
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil as needed
Chicken stock or water, as needed

  • Remove and reserve giblets from the chicken. Rinse chicken well, inside and out, and pat dry with paper towels.
  • Cut off wing tips at the first joint and reserve. Remove any excess fat from the bird’s cavity.
  • Rub a little olive oil inside the cavity of the bird, season with salt and pepper, and stuff the parsley into the cavity.
  • Fold the wings back, and truss the bird. Oil and season with salt and pepper.
  • Spray a baking dish or roasting pan with Pam and place the raw vegetables, wing tips, and giblets (except the liver) in the bottom of the pan. Place the bird on top of the vegetables, breast side up.
  • Place in preheated oven, and roast for about 1 ¼ to 2 hours, depending on the size of the bird. (Allow about 20 minutes per pound.). Test for doneness by seeing if the thigh juices run clear when pierced with a knife or when the internal temperature of the thigh reaches 170°F.
  • Remove chicken and allow to rest on a carving board. Remove trussing and parsley from the chicken’s cavity.
  • Skim fat from the vegetable mixture. Place vegetables and any meat from the neck and wing tips (remove the bones!) in a blender and puree, adding chicken stock or water as needed to make a thick, pan style gravy.



GLAZED ROOT VEGETABLES

Serves 4

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 carrots, peeled, and cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces
2 parsnips, peeled, and cut diagonally into 1-inch pieces
½ pound turnips, peeled, halved, and cut into 1-inch slices
12 pearl onions, blanched, outer skin removed
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt and black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons Balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons brown sugar or honey

  • In a deep heavy skillet, melt the butter. Add the carrots, parsnips, and turnips, stirring to coat. Add bay leaf, salt, and pepper. Cover, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes, or until tender.
  • Remove lid, increase heat, and add the balsamic vinegar and sugar, stirring to coat. Continue to cook until a glaze is formed.



HORSERADISH MASHED POTATOES

Though you can use Russet or baking potatoes, I love the smoother silkier texture of boiling potatoes. Try both ways to see which you prefer. To peel or not to peel? I like the rustic look and flavor of the peels, so I leave the peels on. I like seeing the flecks of red or gold in the finished product.

Serves 4.

2 pounds Red Bliss or Yukon Gold potatoes
¾ cup heavy cream or whole milk
¼ cup (4 tablespoons) prepared horseradish
¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, softened
Black pepper and kosher salt, to taste

  • Scrub potatoes and cut into 2-inch pieces. Cover potatoes with cold salted water and bring to a boil. Reduce to a slow boil and continue cooking, uncovered, until tender, about 18 minutes.
  • In a small saucepan, heat heavy cream or milk to a simmer and remove from heat. (Heating the milk prevents the potatoes from becoming gummy.)
  • Drain potatoes well. Return to the cooking pot, and add the cream, horseradish, butter, salt, and pepper. Mash until well combined.

 

GINGER CRÈME BRÛLLÉE WITH AN APPLE-GOLDEN RAISIN COMPOTE

This is a wonderful recipe from Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten from Off Duty compiled by Chef David Nicholls. I adapted the recipe for the compote from Pastry Chef Valerie Hill of the Morrison-Clark Restaurant in Washington, D.C.

Serves 4.

For the Custard:
2¼ cups heavy cream
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 cup fresh ginger, chopped
6 egg yolks
¼ cup Demerara or light brown sugar

  • Place cream, sugar, and ginger in a pan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat, cool at room temperature, cover and refrigerate overnight so that the ingredients can infuse.
  • The next day, whisk the egg yolks together in a bowl. Bring the cream mixture back to the boil, and whisk it into the yolks. Strain through a fine sieve. Divide between 4 ramekins or other small dishes. Place in a water bath and bake for 35 minutes at 325°F just until set in the center when the pan is gently shaken.
  • Shortly before serving, sprinkle the Demerara sugar over the crème brûlées and then caramelize with a blowtorch or in the broiler. Leave for a few minutes until the sugar hardens, then garnish with the apple raisin compote.

For the Compote:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1-½ pounds tart green apples, peeled, cored, and sliced ¼ inch thick
5 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 cups water
1 cup apple cider
4 whole cloves
5 black peppercorns
zest of one lemon
1 cinnamon stick, broken in half
½ cup golden raisins

  • Melt butter in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add apples, 1 tablespoon of the sugar, and lemon juice. Sauté until golden, about 10 minutes. Transfer apples to a bowl.
  • In the same skillet, add the water, cloves, peppercorns, lemon zest, cinnamon, 1 cup of apple cider, and 4 tablespoons of sugar. Bring to a boil, and allow to reduce to 2/3 cup, about 20 minutes. Strain and discard solids.
  • Return liquid and apples to skillet. Add golden raisins. Simmer for 3 minutes. Cool. Serve atop the crème brûlées.
     
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