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Chef's Corner
Susanna Griffith, honor graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, and Janice Berman, experienced wine consultant, offer a menu to enhance a memorable holiday occasion with friends and family.

Merry Merry!! Happy, Happy!!

Okay, Bah Humbug!! I know that’s how many of us feel as the holidays fast approach, and we have so much to do, and very little time to accomplish anything. However, it is also time to slow down and savor the joys and wonders of this winter season: the lights, the decorations, and the awe in a child’s expression. Take a moment and dream of Holidays past, of friends and family. Recognize the spirit in each of us, believe in Santa Claus, wish for snow, string popcorn for garland, and play some jazzy carols.

So, after you have baked and decorated more cookies than seem possible, wrapped more presents than anyone deserves, and mailed stacks of greetings from the ever expanding holiday card list, make yourself a nice cup of tea, or if you’re feeling particularly frisky, a lovely glass of St. Emilion.

This year, I am sharing a Gravlax recipe with you, and pairing it with Buckwheat Blini, and all the accoutrements. It is a perfect meal for a special breakfast or brunch, for a gala affair, or to begin a sumptuous dinner. Gravlax is a simple dish to make, only requiring patience and room in the refrigerator. So, if this doesn’t turn you into a food geek, then what will?

Pair the Gravlax and Blini with Domestic Caviar, Sour Cream, Sliced Radishes, Dill Sprigs, and Hard-Boiled Eggs. For other Holiday Ideas, peruse our past article: http://www.centennialwines.com/chefs_corner_sparkling_winter.htm

My wine of choice for the holidays is always sparkling and this recipe begs for Laurent Perrier’s Non-Vintage Brut Rosé. Colored a beautiful petal pink with aromatics of toasty and spicy cherry fruit and berries. Elegant, well-integrated, and full-bodied, with a lingering haunting finish.

Another stellar selection is Guy Larmandier Non-Vintage Brut Rosé. Because we believe the quality of the fruit harvested by this extraordinary Champagne house is so superior, the cuvees shipped into Dallas receive virtually no "dosage". Exceedingly dry, delicate and fine; pale strawberry color. Aromas of strawberry and raspberry. Round and fruity in the mouth with a long, clean finish.

May the blessings of the past guide us into the future. Happy Holidays!!


GRAVLAX

We made Gravlax several times at the Culinary Institute of America, and at New World Home Cooking in Saugerties, New York. Don’t limit yourself to dill, vary with other herbs and seasonings. Use other citrus juice, or a spirit (gin, vodka, tequila, aquavit, etc).

Serves 30 as an Appetizer
Or 10 as a Main Course

2 salmon fillets, weighing approximately 2 to 2 ½ pounds total*
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup Kosher salt
1 cup light brown sugar
1 bunch dill, coarsely chopped, stems and leaves
4 tablespoons cracked peppercorns
zest and juice of 1 lemon, separated

  1. Wipe salmon fillets dry with a paper towel. Carefully check for any bones, removing them with a small pair of needle nose pliers or tweezers. With a sharp knife, lightly score the salmon skin on both fillets every 2½ inches so that the dry rub will penetrate.
  2. Mix together the sugar and salt. Rub some of the mixture into the skin side of the fillet. Sprinkle some of the dill and lemon zest in a deep glass or ceramic container. Place a salmon fillet skin side down in the dish. Brush with olive oil, sprinkle with lemon juice and rub in the salt mixture. Sprinkle generously with the dill, zest, and cracked peppercorns. Repeat the procedure with the other fillet, but stack it skin side up on the other fillet. Top with the remaining dill and zest.
  3. Wrap with plastic wrap and place another pan on top and try to weight it evenly. (A few cans or a skillet will do. It doesn’t need to be very heavy, just exert enough pressure to help push out the liquid.) Refrigerate and turn fish twice a day for 3 days.
  4. Rinse well with cool water and pat dry.
  5. Lay both sides skin side down. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with fresh dill. Refrigerate until ready to use. Keeps up to 2 weeks properly chilled.

*If you only want to prepare half the recipe, slice the fillet in half on the diagonal and sandwich together. Proceed with the recipe.


BUCKWHEAT BLINI

From The Cake Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum and La Tulipe Restaurant

Start this recipe the day before serving the blini. Blini are best fresh, but may be made in advance, covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat, covered in a 300°F oven for 10-15 minutes.

Serves 8-10 or about 70 Blini

1½ teaspoons dry yeast (not rapid-rise)
2 ½ cups warm milk
1 tablespoon + ½ teaspoon sugar
½ cup (lightly spooned into cup) stone-ground buckwheat flour
2 ¼ cups sifted all-purpose flour
3 large egg yolks
1 large egg white
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons clarified butter (1 tablespoon each olive oil and butter)

The Day Before:

  1. Proof the yeast in a small bowl, using ½ cup of the warm milk (100°F) ½ teaspoon of the sugar, and the yeast. Set aside for 10-20 minutes, or until the mixture is full of bubbles.
  2. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and stir in the buckwheat flour and 1 ½ cups of warm milk. Cover and allow to stand in a warm place for 2 hours.
  3. Stir in the all-purpose flour and the remaining ½ cup milk until smooth. Add the egg yolks, remaining sugar, and salt. Mix well, cover, and allow to stand in a warm place for 1 hour. Refrigerate overnight. The batter will be thick and have bubbles all over the surface.

Serving Day:

  1. Preheat the oven to 300°F.
  2. Whip the cream until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Fold into the batter.
  3. Beat the egg white until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Fold into the batter.
  4. Pour 2 ½ inch rounds of batter onto a hot griddle which has been lightly greased with the clarified butter between each batch. Cook until puffed and golden, about 1 ½ minutes. Turn and cook the other side for 30 seconds or until lightly brown. Place in the oven for 10 minutes to finish cooking the inside of the blini.