Susanna Griffith, honor graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, and Janice Berman, experienced wine consultant, offer a menu to enhance a memorable holiday occasion with friends and family.
STARRY WINTER FETE
OR
IT'S TIME FOR "GROWER" CHAMPAGNES!
We all know the big names or "Marques" in Champagne: Moet & Chandon, GH Mumm, Pommery, Laurent-Perrier, Piper-Heidsieck, Perrier-Jouet, Taittinger, Louis Roderer, Nicolas Feuillatte and the 252 other houses in the Champagne region. These houses make up over 70% of all Champagne sales, yet combined, they own only 12 % of the vineyards from which the grapes come. That's miniscule. Imagine, Moet & Chandon produces 13% of all negociant house wines - two million cases annually - and, this includes 200,000 cases of Dom Perignon. That's a lot of Dom!
Where are the vineyard owners who grow the grapes? Growers own 88% of the vineyards, but are responsible for just 12% of sales. There are approximately19,000 growers in Champagne; of that, about 5,112 grow and sell under their own label, often, cooperatives blending their wine, often under many different labels. Maybe, 2,124 grow, their own grapes, painstakingly make, age, bottle and sell under their own name.
What happened in Burgundy, starting in the late 1960's, when the region was dominated by negociants, (who purchased grapes or juice from the growers and then bottled under their own name), the same situation has exploded in Champagne. More growers, who own Grand and Premier Cru vineyards, are producing and selling their own superb bottlings. Yet, this accounts for less than 10,000 cases produced by upwards of 30 such growers.
Here are a few of our favorite 'Artisan', growers, whose resplendent Champagnes clearly are representative of their origin - the grapes, their unique geological makeup and their important terroir. Taste the difference! Savor the flavor and quality! Feel smug about trying a unique bottle of 'grower' Champagne! Serve these beauties before and during a meal!
GUY LARMANDIER 'CRAMANT' GRAND CRU BRUT NV
100% Chardonnay Sparkler from the GC village of Cramant, this is quite dry and elegant. The color is
a brilliant pale gold. The tiny bead is persistent. A perfumed citrus nose is highlighted with minerals and pear. In the mouth, the flavors fuse, with concentrated orchard fruit and utter precision. Fabulous length.
PIERRE PETERS CUVEE DE RESERVE BRUT NV
100% Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards in and around Oger. The pale, clear hue leads to a similarly clean
and fragrant aroma of citrus and apples. In the mouth, the tiny bead is persistent, with brioche, flowers and a hint of spice. This is a blend of grapes from the year 2000, with two other vintages blended in. The finish is long and
silky, but not bone-chilling dry. Serve as an aperitif or with salty flavors and cheese.
GASTON CHIQUET 'TRADITION' BRUT NV
From vineyards in Ay and the Valle de la Marne, producing excellent Pinot, this offering is 45% Meunier,
20% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay. Exuberant fruit with spice and citrus notes which dominate the
nose and the palate. There is a wild raspberry and baked fruit flavor adding complexity and depth. Some smoky
notes with flowers is reminiscent of fine white Burgundy. Serious, with excellent length and dry finish.
AUBRY ROSÉ BRUT NV
The hue is pale strawberry and the beautiful fragrance delights with watermelons and berries. These flavors persist with a delightful salty tang in the mouth. Both intense and delicate, this dry and food-worthy rose is a blend of
40% Chardonnay, 45% a mix of Meunier and Pinot noir , with 15% still red wine from 60-year-old Meunier.
VILMART & CIE 'GRAND CELLIER' PREMIER CRU NV
Located in the Montagne de Reims, this 'Little Krug' blends two-thirds Chardonnay to one-third Pinot Noir,
and the fruit comes from the '00-'01 and '02 vintages. The 'lobster stock', brioche and saffron fragrance is
classic to the Grand Cellier. It's sophisticated, with a citrusy zing and fragrance of white iris.
With a mineral-like core, this might be the "iron-fist-in-a velvet-glove" cuvée.
MENU
Jicama Yucateca
Roasted Eggplant and Red Pepper Dip with Pita Toast Points
Smoked Trout, Watercress, and Apple on Black Bread
Herbed Chevre on Endive
Cheese Platter:
Brie or Camembert
Langres
(A lovely cow's milk cheese from Champagne, France. Dense texture, rich and creamy with a long finish.
Sbrinz or Parmigiano Reggiano
Sbrinz is similar to Parmesean, but smoother, nuttier, and less salty
Mixed Olives
Your choice!! Select from Kalamata, Niçoise, Picholine, and our favorite--oil cured
Roasted Nuts
Choose your favorites from your local grocery!
Jicama Yucateca
This is a popular treat in Mexico, both as a street snack and as an appetizer at trendy
cocktail parties. Easy to prepare, jicama's crisp sweetness offers a perfect foil for the tangy
spiciness of the chile and lime. If desired, seedless cucumber (cut into spears) and/or radishes
sliced in quarters, maybe added after soaking and draining the jicama.
Serves 8
Ingredients:
2 jicamas (1 ½-2 pounds)
juice and zest of 2 limes
zest of one orange
1-2 teaspoons chile powder (preferably ancho chile)
sea salt to taste
1 heaping tablespoon finely chopped cilantro
- Peel jicamas and cut into 2 ½ inch by 1/3 inch spears. Transfer to a bowl, cover with cold water, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
- Drain well.
- Toss with the remaining ingredients.
- Arrange on a platter.
Roasted Eggplant and Red Pepper Dip with Pita Toast Points
I love this recipe from Gourmet's Cookbook . It's a crowd pleaser!! Make it the day before, and refrigerate, covered, to allow the flavors to marry.
Yield: 2 ¾ cups
Ingredients:
1 (3/4 pound) eggplant
2 pounds red bell peppers
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for oiling the vegetables
4 large cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 jalapeño, seeded and minced
kosher salt and pepper to taste
- Place rack in upper third of oven and preheat to 400ºF.
- Rub eggplant and bell peppers lightly with oil, and arrange on a baking sheet. Roast turning once or twice, until eggplant is soft and peppers are slightly charred, about 30-40 minutes. Transfer peppers to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let stand 15 minutes. Cool eggplant slightly.
- Peel and seed peppers. Halve eggplant and scoop out flesh.
- In a food processor, pulse eggplant flesh, peppers, oil, garlic, lemon juice, jalapeno, salt and pepper until coarsely pureed.
- Simmer puree in a heavy saucepan until reduced to 2 ¾ cup and excess moisture has evaporated. Cool, cover, and refrigerate.
Pita Toast Points
Yield: 64
Ingredients:
4 pita breads with pockets
- Preheat oven to 375ºF.
- With a sharp knife, cut each pita into eighths. Pull each section in half to make 16 points per pita.
- Arrange on an ungreased baking sheet, and bake, uncovered, until pitas are crisp and lightly browned, about 10-12 minutes. Cool and store covered.
Smoked Trout, Apple and Watercress on Black Bread
We adapted this recipe from Epicurious.com. Delicate and bright, it's a perfect companion to Champagne. Smoked trout can be found at well-stocked supermarkets and specialty food stores. The compound butter can be eliminated from the recipe. It is used to keep the bread from getting soggy from the topping.
Yield: about 16 portions
For the Compound Butter:
Save any leftover and serve with broiled or grilled fish, fowl, meat, or vegetables.
¼ pound unsalted butter (1 stick), softened
¼ teaspoon lemon zest, finely grated
1tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons watercress, finely chopped (or parsley)
kosher salt and pepper to taste
- Blend ingredients until well mixed. Either transfer butter to a sheet of wax paper and form into a log or place in a storage bowl, covered.
Ingredients for the Dressing:
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons prepared horseradish
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon fresh dill, minced
pinch cayenne pepper
kosher salt and pepper to taste
Whisk all ingredients to blend and season to taste. Cover and refrigerate.
Ingredients for the Trout and Apple Salad:
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons lemon juice
12 ounces skinless smoked trout fillets (or whitefish)
¼ cup purple onion, minced
1 small bunch watercress, thick stems trimmed
1 package pre-sliced cocktail black or rye bread
- Toss the chopped apple with the lemon juice.
- Coarsely flake the meat from the trout fillets, making sure that you remove all the bones.
- Combine the apple, fish, and onion. Stir in just enough of the dressing to coat.
- Thinly spread the compound butter on the black bread slices. Top with the trout salad and garnish with watercress sprigs.
Herbed Chevre on Endive
I make this often for parties. I vary the herbs with the season, using Mexican Marigold Mint or Basil in the summer, the more savory woody herbs in the fall. If push comes to shove, purchase a favorite dip whether it be hummus or a flavored cheese spread, and pipe this into the endive.
Yield: 2 cups
Ingredients:
12 ounce log of fresh goat cheese or chevre
¼ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced
finely grated zest and juice from 1 lemon
3 tablespoons chives, finely snipped
1 tablespoon coarsely cracked pink or Szechwan peppercorns
4 heads endive
6 radishes, julienned for garnish
flat leaf parsley leaves or chervil for garnish
- In a food processor, break the log of goat cheese into 4 pieces and process. Slowly add the cream and process until smooth. Add the thyme, zest, lemon juice, and peppercorns. Pulse to blend. Remove to pastry bag with a fluted tip.
- Separate endive into individual leaves. Pipe goat cheese onto each leaf and garnish with the julienned radish and parsley leaf.
|
