I love summer. Maybe because of summer camp, or long indolent days of vacation, or informal get-togethers with family and friends. Maybe because mid-summer is my birthday month and celebrations have ranged from all day treasure hunts to picnics by a Central Texas river to laid back dining al fresco at wine destination restaurants. In celebration of ripe tomatoes, beautiful melons, and zucchini out of control, we envision a number of lovely meals served outdoors.

The quintessential summer wine is a ripe but dry rosé. Whether served as an aperitif, with the main course, or dessert, rosés have once again become the hippest wine to serve to food and wine aficionados. . First, they have the ability to complement every type of cuisine imaginable. Second, the rosy salmon hues are absolutely romantic and sexy. And, third, the aromas entice red wine drinkers, and the body and refreshing acidity sell white wine drinkers. Served just chilled, but not cold, rosés exhibit ripe berry aromas coupled with watermelon, are light to medium bodied, and are, from some producers, a bit creamy, but always with a balancing citrusy acidity.

We planned several simple main course menus around picnics, whether at home, near a river or lake, or an early evening concert or play at a park. Bring a blanket, chill the wine, and prepare these goodies early in the day, or even the day before, in order to avoid the heat. Don’t forget a ripe watermelon or Pecos cantaloupe for dessert. Have some fun and raise a toast to gardens everywhere!

 

Bocaditos (Little Bites)

Pistachios, Olives, Smoked Mussels or Oysters, Marinated Manchego Cheese, Grilled Andouille Sausage, Hummus, Boiled Shrimp with a Mustard Remoulade Sauce, Goat Cheese Bites, Toasted Pita Triangles, French Baguette

Guy Larmandier Vertus Brut Rosé, Premier Cru, Champagne, NV

(Elegant and dry, boasting delicate Pinot Noir-like aromatics of wild strawberries, pomegranate, ripe lemon and hints of sweet spices. Medium bodied with an impeccably clean and well-defined structure. Breathtakingly beautiful finish.)

Or

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé Champagne, NV

(Lovely salmon pink hue. Intense aromas of ripe strawberry, black cherry, red raspberry and toast accented with cinnamon and clove. Full body with a silken texture and long finish. Playful and sexy with romance on the mind.)

Or

Domaine du Gourde de Chaule, Rosé, Gigondas, Rhône, France, 2005

(This gorgeous wine is always consistent. With a deep rose color, it is rich, full-bodied, with a thick and dense texture. A blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, and Cinsault….strawberries and spice from start to finish.)

 

Grilled Chicken Pan Bagnat with Two Salads

Verget du Sud Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse, France, 2005

(Our new best friend just arrived! Sparkling medium pale pink in color, with a delicate scent of red currant, black cherry, and watermelon. The cherry flavors are bright and generous with a silky texture and perfect length.)

 

Crios de Susanna Balboa Rosé of Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, 2005

(If you want a great rosé wine that’s not bone dry and is a perfect companion to all types of spicy cuisine, the Crios is the top-pick. Chill a bottle or two of this berry-bright rosé from one of Argentina’s best winemakers. Deep rose tint boasting a cherry and raspberry nose layered with sweet spice. Juicy and sumptuous. Yummy!)

Or

Etude Rose of Pinot Noir, Carneros, California, 2005

(Tony Soter’s estate Pinot Noir fruit is ideally suited to Carneros’ cool, marine-influenced climate, with its distinct soil types. His rosé is as seductive and elegant as are his reds: light salmon color and juicy with watermelon, strawberry, and rose petal aromatics. Mixed berry flavors, including pomegranate lead to a mouthwatering finish. Etude Rosé takes warm-weather dining to a new high.)

PICNIC THREE
 

Grilled Summer Vegetable Terrine with a New Potato and Haricots Verts Salad

Domaine de Peyrassol Rosé, Cðtes de Provence, France, 2005

(Dry, with lovely strawberry/cherry fruit, the château cuvee is more full-bodied—a serious wine with firm minerality to its finish, a slight salmon tint to its color, a classic rosé wine that marries beautifully to many, many types of cuisine. A real tour de force!)

Or

Château Valcombe Rosé, Côtes du Ventoux, France, 2005

(Valcombe produces an exuberant rosé, full of strawberry/cherry flavors. More full-bodied and carrying a richer color—with Syrah as part of the blend with Grenache and Cinsault—Valcombe is a heady wine that will handle the most assertive types of cuisine. A rosé for the red wine drinker to love.)

 

Bisson Ciliegiolo Rosé, Liguria, Italy, 2005

(A red wine posing as a rosé! The brilliant, cherry-red Ciliegiolo is as fresh as a sea breeze, packed with the same red cherry fruit as its gorgeous color. A joyous, simply delicious, thirst-quenching wine from the southern shores of Liguria. Cheers!)


Recipes:

Picnic One:

Bocaditos (Little Bites)
Pistachios, Olives, Smoked Mussels or Oysters, Marinated Manchego Cheese, Grilled Andouille Sausage, Hummus, Boiled Shrimp with a Mustard Remoulade Sauce, Goat Cheese Bites, Toasted Pita Triangles, French Baguette

Another term for Tapas, or bite-sized Hors d’oeurves. This menu can be as simple or complicated as you wish. With lots of different flavors, textures, and aromas, this vies as one of my favorite meals. We served this and variations at New World Home Cooking in Woodstock, New York.

Purchase pistachios, mussels, breads, and a selection of olives: Kalamata, Oil-cured, Manzanilla, et cetera.
Serves 4.

Marinated Manchego Cheese
Make at least 2 hours ahead of time.

½ pound Manchego Cheese, cubed
1 dried chile japon, crumbled, or ½-1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1-2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2-3 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1. Toss cheese with the other ingredients.
2. Store in an airtight container, refrigerated.

Grilled Andouille Sausage
Slice ½ pound Andouille on the diagonal. Heat a cast iron grill pan. Grill slices on both sides. Serve at room temperature.

Hummus
I have a confession. I rarely cook dried beans anymore. There are so many quality brands of canned beans (Cento, Progresso, Goya, to name a few) at the market, that I keep several varieties on hand.
Makes about 2 cups.

One 1 pound 3 ounce can of chick peas (garbanzo), drained and rinsed
1/3-cup sesame tahini
2-3 garlic cloves
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
zest of ½ lemon, minced
2-3 tablespoons parsley, minced
¼ cup olive oil
Water as needed

1. Mince garlic. Add salt and continue mincing until garlic forms a paste.
2. In a food processor, process the chickpeas with the garlic paste, lemon juice, lemon zest, and parsley. Add in the olive oil. Thin with water to desired consistency. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Boiled Shrimp with a Mustard Remoulade Sauce
From We Want Clean Food! By Ric Orlando

Depending on size, allow 2-4 shrimp per person. Boil, using your favorite recipe, or have the fishmonger do it for you. The sauce is easily doubled and keeps indefinitely refrigerated. It’s great with all sorts of seafood, meats, poultry, and vegetables!

In a food processor, combine all the ingredients except the oil and process well. Then, with the machine running, add the oil in a steady stream to emulsify.

Herbed Goat Cheese Bites
Adapted from The Herb Garden Cookbook by Lucinda Hutson
Makes about 20 bite size cheese balls.

1 8-ounce log goat cheese
½ teaspoon chopped fresh herbs for each ball (basil, rosemary, thyme, chives, sage, etc)

1. Slice goat cheese into ½ inch rounds. Roll each round into 2 bite size balls.
2. Roll each ball in your choice of herbs.

Note: dried spices and herbs will also do well, but use less, as they can be stronger in flavor. I like black pepper, fresh crushed. Edible flowers and small leafed herbs are lovely, individually pressed into each ball.

Pita Triangles
Yield: 32 triangles

2 each whole wheat pitas
Preheat oven: 375°F

1. Slice each pita into 8 pie shape wedges. Separate the top from the bottom crust.
2. On an ungreased baking sheet, place pita triangles. Bake until crisp, about 10 minutes. Store in a paper bag.

Picnic Two:

Grilled Chicken Pan Bagnat with Two Salads

Grilled Chicken Pan Bagnat
From Epicurious.com / Bon Appétit, August 2002.
Serves 8.

Pan Bagnat literally translates as “Bathed Bread.” It is a great sandwich from Southern France , traditionally using tuna packed in olive oil. Make these sandwiches at least four hours before serving or even the day before.

6 chicken breast halves, skinless and boneless
1/3 cup plus ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon dried herbes de Provence (dried thyme, basil, savory, fennel seeds, and lavender)
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced lengthwise
Salt and pepper to taste
2 teaspoons anchovy paste
2 1-pound round sourdough bread loaves (or other artisan bread)
4 tablespoons drained capers
2 large tomatoes, thinly sliced
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
Fresh basil leaves

1. Using a meat mallet, pound chicken breasts between sheets of plastic wrap to ¾-inch thickness. Combine 1/3-cup oil, 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice, the herbes de Provence , and half of the garlic in a large re-sealable bag. Add chicken to bag, coat with marinade. Chill at least 2 hours and up to 6 hours.
2. Remove chicken from marinade, shaking off excess. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Grill on medium-high heat until cooked through, about 4 minutes per side. Cool, and cut on the diagonal into ½-to ¾-inch slices.
3. Whisk anchovy paste, remaining 4 tablespoons lemon juice, and remaining garlic in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the remaining ¾ cup of olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Cut both bread loaves in half, horizontally. Remove the interior crumbs from the top half of each loaf, leaving a ½-inch thick shell.
5. Drizzle ¼ cup dressing inside of each top, and ¼ cup dressing inside of each bottom half of bread. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of capers in each. Divide the chicken, tomatoes, onion, red bell pepper, and basil leaves between the two sandwiches. Cover with the top crusts, pressing to compact. Wrap in plastic wrap, then foil. Weight wrapped sandwiches with a heavy skillet or food can. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour before serving. To serve: cut into quarters.

Fennel Salad
From Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan.
Serves 6-8.

2 large round fennel bulbs (If possible, use a round shaped bulb, rather than the elongated, as it is crisper and less stringy, and thus finer for use in raw cuisine.)
Kosher salt, to taste
Extra virgin olive oil
Black pepper, fresh ground, to taste

1. Cut the fennel tops where they meet the bulbs and discard them. Detach and discard any of the bulb’s outer parts that are bruised or discolored. Slice off about 1/8 inch from the butt end. Slice into very thin rings. Soak the rings in 2 or 3 changes cold water. Drain and dry.
2. Toss with salt, enough oil to coat well, and black pepper.

Orange and Cucumber Salad
Adapted from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan.
Serves 6-8.

1 cucumber (peeled if waxed)
3 oranges
6 small red radishes
8 mint leaves
Kosher salt, to taste
Extra virgin olive oil
Juice of ½ lemon

1. Slice cucumber in half lengthwise and seed with a dinner spoon. Slice crosswise into very thin discs.
2. Peel the oranges, removing the pith. Section the oranges, removing any membrane, pith, or seed.
3. Cut radishes into thin discs.
4. Rough chop the mint leaves.
5. Toss the above ingredients together with the salt to taste, olive oil, and lemon juice.

Picnic Three:

Grilled Summer Vegetable Terrine with a New Potato and Haricots Verts Salad

Grilled Summer Vegetable Terrine
From Feast of Sunlight by Norman Van Aken

I love this terrine! It’s so satisfying on a hot summer day. I have also made this as individual stacks of grilled vegetables, and served hot. It’s almost vegetarian (except for the cheese). I have been known to substitute drained and pressed extra firm tofu for the cheese. Treat as you would the vegetables, planking the tofu, brushing with olive oil, seasoning with salt and pepper, and then grilling.

Yield: one 6 by 8 inch terrine

1 zucchini, cut into planks, ¼ inch thick
½ eggplant, cut into planks ¼ inch thick
1 yellow squash, cut into planks, ¼ inch thick
1 bunch basil, picked, leaves left whole
Olive oil
Kosher salt and black pepper to taste
2 cups Tomato Sauce (recipe follows)
Red wine or Balsamic vinegar to taste
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1-cup fresh breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil

1. Sprinkle eggplant slices with salt and allow to drain in a colander for 30 minutes. Rinse and dry.
2. Brush the zucchini, squash, and eggplant on both sides with olive oil and season with the salt and pepper.
3. Fire up the grill or preheat the broiler.
4. Grill vegetables on both sides, until soft but not falling apart. If using the oven, place vegetables on a baking sheet and broil until soft but not falling apart.
5. Allow vegetables to rest. Collect any juices to add to the sauce as it cooks.
6. Add a bit of wine vinegar to the tomato sauce and check for flavor, adding more salt, pepper, or vinegar as needed.
7. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil the terrine or casserole. Starting with the eggplant, and working in layers, alternate the sauce with layers of eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash, and the whole leaf basil. Sprinkle grated Parmesan and breadcrumbs on each layer before adding the next. Top the last layer with breadcrumbs that have been moistened with olive oil and mixed with a bit more Parmesan.
8. Cover and bake about 40 minutes. Towel off any excess liquid. Cool completely, overnight if possible.
9. Insert a knife around the outside of the mold and gently invert the terrine. Chill until ready to serve. Slice with a serrated knife.

Tomato Sauce
From We Want Clean Food by Ric Orlando

Freeze or refrigerate the extra sauce for a quick pasta dish. I make this sauce weekly. It’s super easy and I like it a lot better than supermarket sauces. I add all sorts of things-from sausage to mushrooms, olives to red bell peppers. I serve it rough on pasta or rice, or, for this recipe, I prefer it puréed.

One 20-ounce can whole tomatoes
4-6 garlic cloves (the more, the merrier), peeled and sliced thin as a dime lengthwise
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup chopped basil
Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste

1. Over medium heat in a heavy skillet (I use cast iron), heat the olive oil. When it is shimmering, add the cloves and sauté until golden around the edges and beginning to become translucent.
2. Add the tomatoes, juice and all and continue to cook. Using a potato masher or wooden spoon, break up the tomatoes. Continue cooking uncovered for another 15 to 20 minutes at a steady simmer and allow to reduce somewhat. Add the basil and season to taste.
3. Remove from heat and pour into a blender. Be sure and put the lid on tight and cover with a towel. Hold lid in place, and pulse until smooth. Cool. Measure out 2 cups for the above recipe and store the rest.

New Potato and Haricots Verts Salad
Serves 6-8.
Note: if you cannot find haricots verts, simply use slim, young green beans.

1 ½ pounds Red Bliss potatoes
1-pound haricots verts (French green beans)
¼ cup finely chopped red onion
1/3-cup walnuts, chopped
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh Tarragon or Mexican Marigold Mint, minced (or 1 teaspoon dried tarragon)
Kosher salt and black pepper to taste

1. Scrub potatoes. Slice potatoes into ¼ inch rounds. Cover with cold water, add a bit of salt, and bring to a boil. Cook until just crisp tender. Drain and cool.
2. Wash and trim the haricots verts. Bring water with some salt to a rolling boil. Par-boil the beans until crisp tender (about 5 minutes). Drain and cool.
3. Combine the potatoes, beans, red onion, and walnuts in a bowl.
4. In another bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, sugar, mustard and black pepper. Pour the dressing over the vegetables. Toss gently, taking care not to break up the potatoes.
5. Allow the salad to rest, covered and refrigerated for about an hour. Check seasoning, and adjust as needed.